Archives for September 2013

Tourmalet trounce

September 25, 2013 By ColleenBusch

We heard Tourmalet was a fiercely challenging climb and that many a Tour de France has been decided on it. Well, climbing is believing, apparently. We saved this monster pass for last on accident, and it lived up to its reputation yesterday.

I didn’t take many photos since my energy was going towards getting myself and my heavy but trusty touring bike up the hill. Here are a few images:

John on last switchback before summit of Tourmalet

The view down the other side of the pass--in the Tour they climb both approaches, sometimes in one day! — The view down the other side of the pass–in the Tour they climb both approaches, sometimes in one day!

Pedaling backwards in time, the day before Tourmalet, we tackled the Col d’Aspin,another Tour mainstay, but a much gentler climb.

Encouragement for the pros is still visible as the amateurs ride by

After descending Col D'Aspin, we crossed this sweet, pastoral valley to the next climb, Col d'Hourquette D'Ancizan — After descending Col D’Aspin, we crossed this sweet, pastoral valley to the next climb, Col d’Hourquette D’Ancizan

Watch video clip

Morning light on Col d'Aspin — Morning light on Col d’Aspin

Photo moments from the Pyrenees

September 22, 2013 By ColleenBusch

Me all geared up for the rain at Col d'Aubisque — Me all geared up for the rain at Col d’Aubisque

View from Terrace in Argeles Gazost, our base for many fabulous rides

And then we drive to Bagneres du Luchon, another base. This was the view from our hotel room the first night, during which we hardly slept because of drunkards shouting and fighting in the square below.

That's Spain, which we reached via the Col du Portillon — That’s Spain, which we reached via the Col du Portillon

Today, Sunday the 22nd, the autumn equinox, we rode to the Col du Peyresourde, climbed this July in the Tour de France. This is the valley we pedaled up.

Peyresourde pass cafe proprietor showing us his "casse têtes"-- brain teaser games... — Peyresourde pass cafe proprietor showing us his “casse têtes”– brain teaser games…

...which we weren't so good at solving — …which we weren’t so good at solving

...and back home to Luchon--time for laundry! — …and back home to Luchon–time for laundry!

Bread is as central to French culture as suffering is to Buddhism, so we enjoyed this sign! OK, à bientôt mes amies! — Bread is as central to French culture as suffering is to Buddhism, so we enjoyed this sign!
OK, à bientôt mes amies!

Pyrenees Act 1 Scene 1

September 18, 2013 By ColleenBusch

What could be better than riding in France? Riding in France with friends!

Friends Bill Stewart and Kalima Rose arrived in Toulouse on Sept 14. On the 15th, we loaded up the bikes in Toulouse on the very narrow street outside our hotel. A tourist train snaked by, and several cars that I never thought would have fit without taking off a mirror, or a handlebar.

We arrived in Argeles-Gazost, a great place to base ourselves for rides over many well known Tour de France peaks.

Unfortunately, John had developed a nasty cough by then which is still lingering despite a visit to a local doctor and a prescription for antibiotics. Yes, maybe it’s viral, but with John’s myeloma, we don’t take chances. The cough sounds like it is coming from his feet.

He has been chauffeuring us to the starts of our rides, allowing us to do more manageable distances and getting out to see the views outside the hotel room.

He is trying to keep a beneficial attitude, but we are here on this Pyrenees trip because he dreamed it up. We are riding, and he is hacking and lying in bed with muscle aches. I was sick like this on a bike trip we did once in Italy–also preceded by rainy weather–and it was only so consoling that we were staying in a castle and surrounded by Tuscan hills. He is with us in spirit, I know, but I miss him on the rides. We’ve been married twelve years and riding together steadily all that time, so his absence on these mountain passes is profound for me, down to my toes.

That said, I can’t really imagine riding anywhere more beautiful. The Tour de France riders can hardly take it in, they are in so much pain and so focused on their competitive goals. But I’m not competing with anyone, and it’s lovely. The first ride in our Pyrenees tour started at the top of the Col de Spandelles. Here we are with all of our clothes on, preparing to descend.

Here are the views from that descent. Imagine mountain stream sounds in your ears, the dinging of sheep and cow bells.

Then we rode up the Col du Soulor (altitude 1474 meters). The feeling is so expansive you are swept up the mountain by it, pedal turn by pedal turn.

Ride 2 in the Pyrenees was yesterday, the 17th, from a little town called Gédre, steadily climbing up a long valley to the Cirque de Troumouse, where I was astonished to find cows at that elevation, 2125 meters.

What will we do today? That remains to be worked out, but I am sure it will be spectacular!

Looking forward and back

September 12, 2013 By ColleenBusch

I could list many favorite things about La France. The graceful language, fun to speak and even more fun to listen to, the relentlessly edible food and drinkable wine, the long history and beauty of the country. The joie de vivre par-tout.

Every day we pass through many small towns, and I’m always struck by how well cared for the homes are–even a crumbly hundred year old stone farmhouse will be dotted with flower beds and decked out with colorful shutters, blue and orange and red. It warms my heart as I pedal past.

Arriving in and exiting towns, however, is decidedly not one of my favorite things. Many people all trying to get somewhere on teeny, tiny streets. The leisure of the lunch hour is nowhere in evidence. It’s dog-eat-dog, or car-eat-bike. You muscle through, with a little prayer that you will emerge intact, pointed in the right direction.

Leaving Sarlot Le Caneda, after staying two nights to work around the rain, we managed to ruffle the feathers of a numbers of drivers, getting in their way as we tried to navigate to the bike shop for some air in our tires. The bike shop was closed, and just for good measure, a bee stung my ring finger to bid us farewell. Ouch.

Our days in the saddle have been great. We typically start around what we call “the crack of 11.” We ride through gorgeous countryside on relatively quiet roads. Castles pop up everywhere. Cows watch us, chewing their cud. Sometimes cars, or other cyclists, pass and give a thumbs up. Yesterday I rounded a corner and came upon a puddle of sheep, lounging in a pile, heads resting on flanks. I stopped to take a photo and they watched me cautiously but then decided I couldn’t be trusted and dispersed, to my disappointment. Once one of them turned tail, that was it, they all did.

I have a rear view mirror that attaches to my helmet–very helpful when touring. I’ve been thinking how it’s always important to see both in front of you and behind you on the road, and in life. You can’t just look in one direction. Well, you can, of course, but why would you want to? You’d miss so much.

Tomorrow is the last day of riding in this region–the Dordogne, Lot and Cele valleys–and then we return to Toulouse to meet friends and head to the Pyrenees! Woo hoo!

Let's see, I think we're here... — Let’s see, I think we’re here…

View from our room in a 14th century home in Figeac

Quick hit

September 11, 2013 By ColleenBusch

Day 7 of a 9-day ride. Too wiped to write much, but here is some footage captured of our climb out of a lovely medieval town called Rocamadour.