Colleen Morton Busch

Author of Smolder & Fire Monks

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Castle in a Raindrop

September 9, 2013 By ColleenBusch

Self service wine bar in Sarlat
Self service wine bar in Sarlat

And I guess I should include wine in that subject line, since you can even help yourself in Sarlat-Le-Caneda, where we welcomed the wine and dry hotel room after getting completely drenched on the road. So wet my shoes were squishy. We have rain gear, but with this grande pluie it didn’t matter. Dinner at the bistro across the street was delightful. We were famished, because in addition to the rain-drubbing, we had been unable to eat properly all day. One serious pleasure, and challenge, of bike touring in France is food. Riding 40 kilometers on coffee and a croissant has never worked well for me. I’m a Zen breakfast kind of girl—-three bowls, a mix of sweet and salty, and some protein.

Lunch hours here are kept to schedule–between noon and 2 or 2:30. By 3pm you are out of luck unless you can find a bar open that serves food. Of course, you could self-provision, but that requires organization and planning too, and adds weight.

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Dinner in Sarlat
Dinner in Sarlat

Yesterday we left the bike bags at the hotel and rode a loop into the countryside, lousy with castles. We found ourselves in prime cyclist territory, in the middle of an amateur race of some sort.

Doorway to Domme
Doorway to Domme
The technicolor view from Domme
The technicolor view from Domme
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…and out the door to DommeApproaching Castelnaud la Chapelle -- note the rain clouds overhead
Approaching Castelnaud la Chapelle — note the rain clouds overhead

 

The sky threatened, but it didn’t unleash on us.

Filed Under: Uncategorized Tagged With: bike touring france, Castles, Sarlat

Animal spirits

September 7, 2013 By ColleenBusch

This kitten made my morning yesterday in Les Eyzies

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Chasing his tail and playing

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After that we visited a PreHistoric Parc, with replicas of scenes from the daily life of Cro Magnon man. I jumped into one of the dioramas to defend this poor wooly mammoth (sorry, blurry pic–John is good at putting together bikes, not so good at framing and focusing photos).

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The parc was a cool way to interact with a distant time period, and it was blissfully uncrowded. Plus, there were kittens there too:

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Then there were random magnificent chateaux sightings, like this one along the Vezere river

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Grey skies and wet conditions this morning in Montignac. A good day to visit nearby Lascaux II, the replica of the famous prehistoric caves. The real site can no longer be visited because, surprise surprise, they were becoming degraded by human presence. I learned at the PreHistoric Parc yesterday that Cro Magnon man “gave nothing to his environment–he exploited it for his use.” Definitely our ancestor.

After Lascaux we push on in rain gear. A bientot….without proper accents until I can figure out how to add them in WordPress!

Filed Under: bike touring Tagged With: bike touring france, Cro Magnon man, Lascaux, Prehistory

Bike-in-the-Box

September 3, 2013 By ColleenBusch

If only it worked like a Jack-in-the-box and sprung out of the box put together. This is what my Surly steed looks like when it travels to France:

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And this is what it looks like reassembled and ready for riding:

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I was the sous-mechanic all morning, cutting off zip ties with nail clippers and handing John the allen wrenches. Midday, we pedaled away from Hotel Croix Baragnon and wandered into a restaurant serving crepes and cidre–cuisine we can’t resist, having sampled much of it on a prior bike tour in Brittany. After that we toured the old town a bit, with plenty of bike riders for company, albeit looking much more stylish than us. I counted exactly three other cyclists wearing helmets.

The church bell is tolling 5pm. Everyone’s out and about. The city has a very lively feel. Our host at Croix Baragnon, after finding out where we live, called Toulouse the San Francisco of France. Unfortunately we move on tomorrow, but we’ll be back!

Filed Under: bike touring Tagged With: bike touring france

Encouraging Signs

September 2, 2013 By ColleenBusch

On my KLM flight:
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In Amsterdam’s airport:
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Filed Under: bike touring Tagged With: bike touring france

Sitting in the Saddle

August 26, 2013 By ColleenBusch

For years I’ve been watching the supreme athletes of the Tour de France pedal up the passes in the Pyrenees–and been awestruck by the scenery that surrounds them. Tomorrow, I’m heading to France with my bike (and my husband) to cycle up some of those same summits. I won’t be racing, but rather, basking in the natural wisdom of mountains, the pleasurable grit of a challenge, and the daily succor of French food and wine. I’ll be discovering a part of France I’ve never been to before. I’m not sure what I’ll be moved to write about yet, but I’ve been thinking that if bicycles had existed in Buddha’s time, Buddha definitely would have been a wheelman. I’ve also been reading a lot about cycling history, especially as it relates to women’s liberation. Here’s an inspiring photo that speaks to that theme:

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Stay tuned. We’ll be warming up in the Dordogne, between the Loire Valley and the Pyrenees. I’ll write next from our staging ground in Toulouse.

Colleen

Filed Under: bike touring, cycling, pyrenees, Uncategorized, women and cycling Tagged With: bike touring france, pyrenees, women and cycling

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